Instruction set for Pocket Planes P51 Mustang
At the bottom of the page is a special section by John Kim and the slope conversion he did on the Pocket P51. Check it out!
Two tapered wing panels
One wing center section with dihedral cut in both sides
One roll colored tape
Die cut coro-plast tail group and fuselage doublers
Three control horns and screws
will be basically the same as outlined in the generic construction
sheet text but there are a few things that will need to be done
differently. Read both the main instructions and this addendum before
starting. After doing one foamie—you will be an expert foamie builder
and probably be able to throw the instructions away!
You can hurt yourself building this kit! Please use caution and follow
proper safety procedures when using the tools and the adhesives needed
to assemble this kit.
Powered models are dangerous! All
models airplanes present a certain amount of danger to the operator and
anyone in the vicinity. Please be careful when starting the motors and
use good safety practices when operating this model. Wear eye
We at JK Aerotech, have no control over how
this product is used. You, as the operator of this equipment assume
full responsibility during the building and flying of this model to
operate it in a safe manner. Do not start the engine with anyone,
including yourself, in line with a spinning prop or directly in front
of a running motor (I have seen props come off.) Always keep hands and
fingers and other body parts out of the spinning prop. Do not fly over
people, or in populated areas. BE CAREFUL!!
and flying this model you have agreed to take full responsibility for
any property damage and/or personal injury or death caused by this
Building and flying should always be done with adult supervision.
construction is very much the same as all of our foamy kits however I
will take you from start to finish - as if this is your first plane.
First it would be helpful to have a few basic tools handy.
Nylon reinforced filament tape.
Packing tape, either clear or colored. Most kits come with 1 roll included
Possibly 5 min. epoxy
Possibly fiberglass cloth and Epoxy resin and carbon fiber (for super strength wings if using larger than .15 engine)
Razor blades and/or large snap blade knife.
Silicone sealer or builders construction adhesive.
Goop type glue (use only on taped up Styrofoam, it will melt plain styro)
Sanding board and loose sheets of sandpaper, 50 grit for rough sanding 100-150 grit for finish sanding.
tools for gouging out the cavities for the radio gear. Try sharpening
an old flat blade screwdriver to a chisel tip. Wood carving tools or
potato peelers work great too!
Flat table that you can cut against.
A can of 3-M 45 spray glue or something similar that will not melt the foam (if 45 is not available, you can assemble the "war bird" without it but the tape may not stick as well and is not recommended)
is a side view of the hinge line in the elevator. Find the approx.
hinge line by counting forward 6 to 7 ribs from the trailing edge.
Since the elevator is tapered, count forward from the back edge near the center of the elevator.
The more ribs you count the more sensitive the elevator. After finding
the rib where you want the hinge, slice only the bottom surface of the
coro-plast. Then trim the flashing off so the hinge will bend up and
down without binding on itself. Notice the cuts in the hinge, this
makes the hinge bend easier. I take an exacto knife and make 1/4" cuts
every 1/4" or so.
tail pieces are glued together with GOOP. A small bead top and bottom
will do. Then block them so they will dry straight and perpendicular.
CA glue will work also but will not be as crash resistant.
off, this is a very tiny plane. So you will need to think small! In
order to fit all the radio gear, you will need a small radio and micro
servos. We use an FMA Tetra with S-90 servos and a miniature battery
pack. Some Futaba 2 and 4 channel radios are small enough also. It is
designed specifically for our Slickmount because it’s the only easy and
practical way to power this pocket rocket. We should have available all
the small stuff you would need. You could aso use a Cox Baby Bee, Black
Widow or similar engine setup.
you will want to shape the foam. Round the fuselage aft of the wing
with sandpaper, tapering the sides and smoothing them into the canopy.
Look at a picture of a P51 for a rough idea of how the contours should
be. I like to round the canopy out and sand the nose to a semi-oval
shape. Don’t curve it in too much at the top and bottom or the
Slickmount won’t fit. Follow the main instructions on how to make the
firewall and drill the hole for the Slickmount at 1 1/16" from the top edge (Original Slickmount, Slickmount II drill center at about 13/16).
Also, do not sand a compound curve into the nose. In other words,
looking at the top view of the fuse, notice the fuse is straight sided
from about the back of the wing forward—do not change that. Just round
off the top and bottom edges. The fuselage doublers are cut so they
will bend and follow the shape you sanded into the nose, see fig.#3.
You can really exercise your sculpting talents here. Don’t sweat it, it
will fly just great even if you cover it the way it comes in the box.
Just looks a little chunky. Make sure all the fuse is sanded so the
tape will adhere. Follow the fire wall, doubler and taping instructions
on the main sheet with one exception; you could use ½ inch wide
strapping tape instead of ¾ or 1". Also you don’t need to cover the whole front of the plane with strapping tape. The colored packing tape is sufficient.
Make sure you cover the pad where the tail group sits very smoothly
with no wrinkles. The excess tape at the wing slot can be slit and
turned into the slot.
glue the tail group onto the plane using the technique in the main
instructions but first run a small bead of Goop on the pad where the
elevator sits then squish it together and hold or clamp it making sure
it is square and straight.
The following set of pictures will take you through the firewall construction and fuselage taping procedures
sand the fuse to the shape you want then trace around the nose for the
firewall on a suitable piece of plywood. 3/16 works good.
mark the center of the hole for the Slickmount (if you don't use our
mount then disregard the rest of the hole drilling instructions). If
you are using the Killer Bee type Engine with our original Slickmount,
Measure down about 1" from the top edge for the drill center. If you
are using our Slickmount II with a Norvel or Cox Tee Dee, measure down
about 13/16 or so from the top edge. Kind of eye ball the thing to get
it where you want it. The idea here is to get the prop shaft to come
out on the centerline of where the spinner should be according to the
use a drill press but a hand drill will work. Just be sure to clamp the
piece securely. The hole is drilled with a 1 1/4" spade drill bit. You
could use a hole saw or Forstner bit as well.
Band saws work great to cut the firewall out. Watch your fingers!
the firewall is cut, check the Slickmount fit. If it is too tight, sand
it out until it slips in comfortably. Then use the mount for a drill
guide and drill the four mounting holes out for T-nuts if you want or
use a 1/16" drill bit to make wood screw easy to install.
Here is the firewall all done and T-nuts installed. Notice the shape sanded in the fuse.
I like 3M #45 to glue the firewall on but you could use 5min Epoxy also.
3m-77's new formula will melt foam. We are now using 3m-45 spray
glue. It comes in a light blue can and can be found at your local
Lay the fuse on the workbench and set a block of wood on the top before boring the hole for the Slickmount.
Check the fit and depth of the hole
this point the fuselage should be primed with a coating of #45 spray
glue and let dry. Then run a strip of strapping tape around the fuse on
all four sides.
#45 spray glue to stick the fuselage doublers on and then wrap
strapping tape around the nose. The Goop was used to glue the tail
pieces together. DO NOT USE GOOP DIRECTLY ON STYRO FOAM, because it will melt the foam.
For more strength you can use a staple gun to sock a couple of staples
through the doublers into the edge of the firewall. Assuming you use a
firewall thick enough to hit and be careful you don't staple into the
tank or fuel lines. This really makes the nose strong!
taping the bottom. Notice that the tape is sliced so it will conform
better to compound curves. Make little slices in the tape and smooth
each flap down working from the back to the front.
enough tape to lay over the firewall and pull over the top of fuse. The
final tape that covers the top of the fuse should also pull over the
firewall and down around the bottom edge also. This will then be the
final seal to help keep fuel off the wood and foam.
the first strip of tape is applied to the side nearest you. A strip is
on the far side also but it has not been slit and stuck down yet.
the fuse is taped. I would suggest leaving the side tapes long enough
to go around the front of the doublers and covering the inside of the
doublers up to the firewall. Then the last tape on top of the fuse will
seal it all off. Notice I have cut the canopy off and sliced the under
wing air scoop off to allow the wing to be installed.
wing is very simple. Follow the main instructions but since this wing
is so small you can build it very light and you will not need wood
spars. Sand all surfaces and round the wing tips a little if you want.
Use only one strip of spar strapping tape, top and bottom and only one strip of packing tape
on each of the seams, top and bottom. Then prepare the ailerons and
attach according to the main instruction set. The ailerons are made
from strips of coro-plast cut from the edge of the leftovers after
punching the tails and fuse doublers out. Slice off about ½" wide. Tape
up the wing and put one more strip of tape on each seam, top and bottom.
taper wings usually get thinner at the tip, I recommend slicing or
sanding the trailing edge off to get an edge that will remain a
constant thickness along the span. You will be cutting the ailerons
from the leftover 2mil coro-plast that the tail and fuse doublers came
in. So try to trim and sand the trailing edge to match the thickness of
the coroplast. Notice that to get a constant thickness, you will have
to trim more off as you get to the tip of the wing than at the root. In
fact the thickness should be about right at the root.
you apply tape to the wing, sand all surfaces of the wing panels and
center section. Dust off and coat with #45 spray glue then let dry. I
use spray glue to join the wing panels to the center (5 min epoxy works
too). Stick the panels to the center section and apply a strip of
packing tape on each seam and one in the center, top and bottom. Be
very aware of the wing panels and their relation to each other and the
center section. Make every effort to assemble the wing panels and
center so that airfoils match up exactly. Most problems with a plane
inadvertently turning one direction or the other can be traced to one
wing panel that is skewed slightly acting as a giant aileron. Next
run one strip of strapping tape along the spar area, top and bottom.
Our example to the right has all of this done plus the ailerons are
attached. Check the Generic Warbird Sheet for details on the aileron procedure. Notice also that the wing saddle is completely taped up. Be sure to spray 45 on the wing saddle before taping it up.
is the basic plane ready to install the radio and motor. The color is
ugly! this is tan and we don't sell much of it but I think it will be
used as a base for a Camo paint scheme. Any way your war bird should
look similar to this by now. The tape overlap gives the stripe look to
the wings and fuse. most of the other colors don't make such noticeable
striping. The tail is glued on with 45 spray and GOOP as per the instructions.
2-1/8" from the leading edge at 1-1/2" from each side of the fuselage.
In other words, strike a line parallel to the fuse at 1 1/2" out from
each side of the fuse. Then on that line, measure 2 1/8" from the
This should get you in the ball park, you can adjust the CG to suit your flying style.
should now have a wing and fuselage ready for radio gear. First,
because this is a Mustang, it has an airscoop under the wing. You will
have to use a sharp blade and remove it at the back of the wing saddle
(this is after the fuse is taped up). Now cut a hole for the aileron
servo in the wing so that the air scoop will cover the bottom but as
close to the front edge of the scoop as possible. Glue it in with
Silicone. The Aileron deflection should be about 3/16" up and down to begin with. Then,
when you feel more comfortable you can increase the deflection for
quicker rolls. Hook up the servo arms to the ailerons then relieve the
fuselage just above the servo so the control wires and servo arms can
move unobstructed. The further you can sink the servo into the wing,
the better because the exit holes in the side of the plane will be
smaller. Now put the motor on, set the wing on and temporarily tape the
plane together and balance the plane at the CG:
2-1/8" from the leading edge at 1-1/2" from each side of the fuselage.
In other words, strike a line parallel to the fuse at 1 1/2" out from
each side of the fuse. Then on that line, measure 2 1/8" from the
leading edge. Lay out the rest of the gear
to get a rough position and mark it. Since this plane is so small, I
used a sharp razor and cut the canopy off along what I thought looked
like the scale canopy line. After removing the canopy, I fit the
battery and radio in and dug the pockets for them. The drawing shows
roughly where they were located. Then the elevator servo pocket is cut
and a hole is bored through the foam to run wires. After you know were
the radio is mounted you can now glue the wing on. Make sure the wing
saddle is covered with packing tape then put a couple small blobs of
Goop on the wing saddle (use Goop on tape covered foam only)
and pop the wing into place. Make sure it is centered and square. Use
45 spray glue and glue the air scoop back into place and use the
packing tape to cover the cut line and stick it to the wing all around,
in effect molding it to the underside of the wing. Turn the plane over
and run a small bead of Goop along the wing to fuse joint. You can now
install the rest of the radio gear and hook up the elevator. It should
deflect about 3/16" to ¼". When the wing is cured out you are ready for
the first flight.
the wing is covered, mark the aileron servo position. The dark marker
line indicates where the front of the airscoop is on the bottom of the
wing. Use sharp razor to slice the pocket outline then dig the foam
out. Always make the servo pockets snug to eliminate any slop. Servos
always have a little rubber grommet where the wire exits the case. Be
sure to allow for that when you cut the pocket out.
the servo is mounted and hooked up. Hollow out the fuse too give
clearance for the servo and make sure the arms move freely.
All the servos are glued it with a dab of silicone as per instructions.
a hole for the wire and check the fit. A sharpened 3/8" tube works
great to bore holes from the servo pockets to the radio. At this point
I would mark the CG, slip the motor into position and spread the radio
gear out to make it balance. Balance the plane upside down on a couple
nails driven through a piece of plywood then tape the radio gear on to
get a balance. I just lay the stuff out along the bottom of the fuse
and sort of mark where they should go along the length of the fuse. As
long as you keep things in about the same position, front to back, you
can pocket them in anywhere on the side, top, or bottom of the plane.
I switched planes on you! This one already had the radio installed so
I'll use it for illustration. These are only approximate radio gear
placement. Yours may vary a bit depending on your motor and the type of
radio stuff you have. Since the aileron servo can only work in a
limited position, The balance will depend on where you place the
elevator and throttle servo, battery and radio. Yes I said throttle
servo. If you run a Norvel engine, you will want a throttle. This could
be located on the side of the plane just ahead of the canopy. I will
have pictures of that shortly.
The radio pictured here is an FMA Tetra.
Neat little radio--they are discontinued but we have the next
generation called the Magnum available now. They are the right size for
this plane and work great! Notice that it is pocketed in under the
turtle deck. I have hollowed it out so that about half of the radio is
exposed in the canopy area. The battery shown is a 110 mah 4.8v pack
that is extremely small and will run the radio safely for about an
hour. Check the links above for the different batteries available and
their specs. On this plane I have been plugging the battery in directly
and taping the canopy down when ready to fly, but you could install a
miniature switch which would be handy.
Incidentally, this plane has been flown a bunch and I
have personally crash tested it. Just prior to these pictures it was
drilled twice and it didn't even wrinkle!
plane is fast! So set the controls at the minimum first and use dual
rates if you have them. If the ailerons are too sensitive, a quick way
to help that is to trim some of the aileron off. You could trim it
straight or taper it from the root to the tip. If you take too much
off, you can always cut them off and make new ones. Point it to the sky
and give a toss, it should climb straight up but be quick on the
sticks. I have noticed that it tends to roll left on launch. The only
thing I can attribute that to is torque roll from the engine. So be
ready for it or launch tipping it to the right a little. Grasp it just
behind the wing and give an overhead toss. When it is coated with oil
it can get rather slippery so hang on tight. I haven’t tried it yet but
I have seen planes like this launched by hanging on to the fuse above
the wings and giving it a sort of underhand toss up into the air. After
it is trimmed out, it actually isn’t too tricky to fly and the glide is
good. It only weighs about 11oz so it flies very fast on a Cox control
line engine -- a Norvel should be nuts. Good luck!
Pocket P51 Sloper
received several pictures from John Kim who converted our Pocket P51
into a micro slope soaring plane so we will show how he did this and
include his comments.
is showing the battery and receiver compartments in the nose. The wing
servo is installed along with the spar and some custom wing tips. John
sanded the bottom of the wing to make it more of a semi-symmetrical
airfoil to increase lift.
wing is covered and ailerons are attatched, notice that the ailerons
are using torque tube actuation for and the under - wing scoop is
removed for cleaner aerodynamics. The elevator servo is located on the
side of the fuse and the push wire is moving in a slot cut into the
foam - notice how clean this makes the plane in the picture below.
After all the gear is tested, the nose is glued on and will be taped over
John writes: It is too bad you do not have a glider version for the Pocket P51.
the kit included a large hunk of foam block, which I shaped into a nose
block and glued to the front of the fuse which was cut straight for an
engine mount. Since the forward section of the fuse is now make in two
pieces, I hollowed out the nose section and the front of the fuselage
to provide battery and receiver compartments and it worked out nicely.
With it, it was not necessary anymore to dig out the fuse to bury
battery and receiver. The nose is glued to the fuse after everything is
installed and tested. One glued the battery, receiver and switch are
inaccessible. I buried a jack with normally closed contact switch and
glued on the side to serve both as a switch and battery charge jack. To
switch off, a plastic tube with the same diameter as the PLUG is
inserted into the jack from the outside. (this is a cool switch idea! ed).
was found well designed for easy installation and alignment. No problem
here. My initial plan to build a tail from balsa sheet for weight
reduction was abandoned.
symmetrical airfoil was modified to suit glider wing. The bottom of the
wing was sanded and flattened a little for more lift and speed.
wood spar, Leading edge and trailing edge were added for strength.
Aileron was made from balsa to be faithful to airfoil shape.
Air scoop removed to decrease drag.
I covered the plane with Yellow tape provided in the kit, the plane
turned out to be a yellow canary, far from a fighter plane. There were
no mustang decal to put on so I put the rising sun insignia on the wing
to make it look like the Japanese "Hien", the sleek, fast and only
liquid cooled Japanese fighter plane which appeared in the waning stage
of the war.
interested in a mini foam scale glider when I saw fellow flyers flying
a mini P51, designed by Patton Aircraft. Unlike usual foamy gliders
which fly slow because of their light weight, thick wing and bulky
fuse, these mini Patton gliders flew fast and rolled straight. The wing
is thin and appears as one of the glider airfoil designed for speed and
lift. if you are going to produce a glider version of you P51, it would
be profitable for you to examine this mini glider before you design
with Patton P51, our P51 could not rise higher in wind under 10 MPH due
to the airfoil and smaller wing span but in wind above 12 MPH, our P51
even excelled in every performance - climb, speed and agility
more minis by Dave's Aircraft made appearance on our hill. Its
performance was comparable to ours but it was heavier due to nose
weight necessary to balance this short-nosed plane and its price was
higher at $45
Hitec 2 channel Shredder Receiver and two Cirrus sub-micro servos along with a 270mah battery pack
converted Pocket P51 glider flew very will to my satisfaction. More I
look at it, more I like it. I take along to the hill all the time with
other planes and am enjoying fun flying. I hope you will come up with a
glider version soon
So get your mini going with the Pocket P51!